The surprise was the Sala della Musica (Music Room), a veritable treasure trove of historic musical instruments from woodwind to stringed going back to the 10th century. It was fascinating, not least of all to view a forerunner of the bagpipes that the Irish and Scots have claimed for decades. Their piece de resistance however, is a bone flute, claimed to be the oldest musical instrument in the world. They have a local musical group that plays, it must be something special, but we will never get to hear them.

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