Haad Khuad (Bottle Beach) is beautiful and unspoiled, and can be reached by longboat (beautiful journey) or 4WD through the jungle. You must at least visit for a day. As for smile, the staff are lovely and the food is decent in taste, presentation, and price. The bungalows are really cute but are very basic. In the 'economic' one, the shower is pretty much over the toilet, with little room. There's a fan, not AC. The power sockets have been pushed in, so charge your gear in the beachfront cafe/bar/restaurant. What I'm saying is if you can rough it a little, you'll love this place. The snorkelling was okay on the east/right side of the beach. Some coral, some colourful fish. Visibility was not great. There's no sunset here, because it faces north, but the clouds still go orange. Anyway, do visit this very petty beach!